Sunday, September 30, 2012

Week 4 and 5


Week 4 and 5 and some really random photos that have not made it into a blog yet

Week 4 September 14 - 20
Day 22. First day of girls club – getting all the girls saying at least something, with a draft name of Success is our Name.
Very clever kids making paper "cell phones" and taking my "picture" The phones opened up to a keyboard and everything

Day 23.  First day running. At 630 stared out from my house and within minutes I had 6 kids with me running about 20 minutes up the kill to Kpandu. When I went to turn around they asked same time next week?
Day 24. Motorcycling through the countryside with my neighbor, especially watching the canoe ferry across the often flooded river.
Day 25. Reading The Hobbit while Vivian read The Secret Garden at dinner, young adult fiction at its finest.
Day 26. Team Eagle vs. Team Lizard is stage 6 short a sound competition. My first bike ride through town, getting even more looks and hollers than when I am on foot
Day 27. A totally un-memorable day., which is a good thing. It was just a normal work and home day like I really live here.
Day 28. Not a super fun thing but I was happy there was a teacher meeting about the no-canning policies and discussing alternative discipline.

Week 5 September 21- 27
Day 29. Biking to Kpandu and having the time to stop and get mountain views.
Day 30. Monkeys! Bikes!
Take out food, not sure why this pic is not wanting to rotate, sorry.
Day 31. For the first time I accepted the offer of “you are invited” at a bar. Shared some yam and stew with a few guys then ended up talking with George for about an hour.
Day 32. My last “day off” Monday from teaching with a change in the timetable, which I spent reading three young adult books and reading to lots of lower primary students.
Basically beer but without the fermentation. Barley, hops etc. but sugary and no alcohol. It is weird and not sure I like it
Day 33. Made one of my more successful dishes, tomato curry with orange on rice and pasta with avocado on the side.
Mt roomie, we eat a lot of eggs.
Day 34. Went to campus around 5pm and ended up staying for an hour, letting kids call their parents on my phones, teaching hem a new game of tag, letting tons of them ride my bike, including some girls I was happy to see.
Day 35. First day tutoring some older students in reading, loved how the three books they choose to read were: The Borrowers, one of my favourites; Chicken Soup for the Teenage Soul, picked by one of the more popular, jock-type students; and Davy Crockett, my long distant relative. 

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Smart Ladies 4 Success



The speed-get-to-know-you activity
Writing the negative thoughts
This is the new name of the girls club I started here at Bishop Forson School. We had our first meeting two weeks ago then last Friday was a holiday so yesterday was the second meeting. I am sure as the time goes on I will have more detailed and nuanced thoughts about it but for now it has just been fun. The girls are almost all in junior high and we have 15-20 attending. Because there has never been any sort or girls empowerment program here, and the language barrier is still an issue for higher level ideas and concepts, I am starting kind of slow and doing simple activities that I have used with younger girls. Last week I brought jump ropes that I got as a free giveaway at a festival in Atlanta that we used to do an “I Choose” exercise to set the expectation of the club. We brainstormed on big paper with colorful markers about what the name should be. This week we did almost like a speed-dating type activity where each girl had two minutes to talk to each other girl and find out something the same and something different about themselves. This was a crazy raucous activity with them almost doing exaggerated hello, how are you-s with huge high-fives, bumping shoulders, etc. Then we finished on the negative and positive self thoughts. I gave them all small cards to write down negative things they ever thought about themselves or others had told them. We then marched to the garbage pit and torn them up, stamped on them, and threw
them into the pit to be burned. We then came back and everyone had a card to write about all the things that were great about them. Here are excerpts of my favorites, shared with their permission by the Smart Ladies 4 Success.

“I love my future”

“I will do best in life...try to achieve something”

“I love smiling”

“I am beautiful. I am smart and a star and stars always shine”

“I am proud to be a girl. I am happy to play ball”

“I am a girl at sixteen years and I like to play football and love tennis.”

“I am smart. I am a quiet person. I am beautiful. I am intelligent. I am always happy. I am neat. I love everybody”

Teaching the wonderful kids at Bishop Forson



Week four is over and it is amazing how fast it went. I have tried to take the chaos in stride and just focus on what I am doing. There are definitely things that drive me nuts about the school system here, like the totally unpredictable schedule of when classes start, end, break times, or even if we are having school that day. Last week one of my classes was shortened from an hour and a half to 30 minutes because the students had to work on the maize. The next day that same class did not happen at all because all classes were cancelled for a teacher meeting. So my stage 6 class only got 1.25 classes last week, stage 5 got all three, stage 4 two. I am learning to write down what we did each day to remember what class is where.


On my walk home from school
 I think I am the first volunteer to actually teach regular classes for the whole term. Lots of other volunteers help with reading and other subjects but more as a supplemental tutoring, like what I am doing with the junior high school. I have to give these students tests, homework and their grades for the term. Since all the students I am working with were picked to be in a special, small class because they were far behind in reading, the difference between the stage 4 and stage 6 is negligible. This makes it easy to plan lessons since they are all doing the same thing, but when the schedule gets messed up it is hard to remember who has learned the long vowel A and how is still on Pat the Hat.

The one thing I have to learn quickly is how much and how fast I can teach and expect them to learn. One of the reason I think this was difficult is because the verbal, reading and writing are all at wildly different levels. Most of them speak and understand English very well since that is the language everything is taught here. But with limited use of textbooks and no handouts, learning is almost all listening to a teacher or copying verbatim the notes on the board. So reading is far, far behind the other English skills. I was disappointed/surprised that when I have my students a simple vocab quiz using the four words we learned: big, small, heavy, tiny (adjectives we read about in a dinosaur book) It was a fill in the blank and even when I read the sentences out loud several times, they all got the one wrong comparing small to tiny, and most got only 1/4 or 2/4. So I am taking a step back and focusing on reading comprehension in verbal exercises and not having written quizzes. When they do not know the difference between “b” and “d”, maybe writing and understanding a full sentence and thinking about how to fill it in is too much. 
My stage 4 students taking their first quiz

This also brings up the idea of giving these students grades. They are the ones failing regular English so I am backing up and giving them work that they should have learned three or four years ago. Do I grade them on what I teach them, which is tailored to their current level of understanding, so they will get much better grades than they ever have before? Or do I still grade them against what their stage should know? I am going to do the former but I am worried that when they continue onto the next two terms they will have very uneven grades. But maybe, hopefully, with the small and individual attention they will have caught up a bit so they can do better in regular class.

Except for the occasional US volunteer, there is no regular help/tutoring for students that are slipping behind. Repeating a grade is not uncommon but that happens when they are failing in more than half the subjects. If they are consistently failing just one or two, they stay woefully far behind and there seems to be no system to help them catch up. It is too small a school to have different tracks but too large of classes, or too poor of teaching, for teachers to be able to give the help needed to the ones falling behind.

So far I have made this sound like nothing is working but that is not the case at all! I have had a lot of luck with other lessons. The oral reading, round reading and sounding out words is going well. I try to have at least one game/group activity that involves rewarding them with stickers. They get super-duper excited about these games and came up with great team names like Team Eagle vs. the Red Devils. Or Chelsea (the favorite team here) vs. The Lizards. Maybe these games are not as efficient as more drilling or reading but I really think if they see English as fun they will have an easier time in the future.
Selase vs Cofe in a word competition, Selase went 2 and 0

I am also having fun exploring the library and finding books to use in class. They have a pretty great selection of books and I have been using them daily either reading to them or having them read. I try to find books easy enough for them to understand but also with some semblance of a story that students as old as 13 may find interesting. We have been reading a lot of nonfiction books like about dinosaurs and African wildlife. Though simple they are not as silly. Although I love Madeline or Harold and the Purple Crayon, I felt it was a harder sell to the older audience. I also am borrowing books for myself to supplement the kindle. So far I have read The Hobbit, Loser, and a book about the women’s professional baseball league. (Full reading list so far below)

Love the poses they chose for pictures

I certainly remember idolizing certain of my teachers but it is surprising and interesting to see which students are latching onto me and which are not. I am sure now there is still the novelty factor of having an American teacher. I have several of my students and some of the younger ones that seek me out at break time and seem to want to be around me whenever possible. There is one student who has been labeled a “problem student” who has been an absolutely great student in my class so far. He always shows up, helps to extra little things like bringing chairs or collecting assignments and he always shows up which is the big problem with his other classes. I also love all the super quiet students and think I will be able to get them out of their shell. These are mostly girls, but not always. In my small classes of five to seven, everyone participates, reads and answers questions. This is not the case in most classes where they just yell out or raise hands so only the eager ones participate. Or, if these shy, quiet ones are called don it is humiliating. I sit with the students around a table and if a student is having a hard time I speak with them one on one, and quietly figure it out. I hand out tons and tons of verbal reinforcement for these shy ones when they do talk and figure out something. This morning a new girl that was just demoted to stage 3 from my class since she did not understand English at all. She still came in with a new stage 3 friend at break and sat with me and read a little book together. She would not look me in the eye or say a word to me the first two weeks. So I hope the small class is a good experience for the super shy and not just helping with the reading.
Some of the junior high kids, hanging out

 I also love the little ones who are not reading yet just grabbing handfuls of books and making up their own stories based on the pictures. “See, see!” is a common phrase in the library instead of saying “look” to point out something they want their friends to look at. “See, see! A shark!” “See, see he is eating it!” was the story this morning.

So far this is what I have read on my trip. I’m averaging about a book every two days but considering half are YA this is not that impressive:



Adult Fiction
American Wife
Far-Seer
Foreigner
Fossil Hunter
Gold Boy Emerald Girl
Lilith's Brood
The Fellowship of the Ring


Young Adult Fiction
The Extraordinary Adventure of Ordinary Boy
The Secret Garden
The Hobbit
Maniac McGee
Loser
Animorphs #1

Nonfiction
A Whole New Ballgame

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Maybe my best day yet - Biking in Ghana



More monkeys to come, but I just love this picture. He looks so intense.
I rented for three months a bike from my friend Luc and yesterday was my first day on the bike. Torkor is on the edge of Lake Volta and there is a steep little mountain ridge that separates it from Kpandu, the bigger town where I frequently go to use the internet, go to a bar/restaurant and get some things I cannot find in Torkor.
This is my town!
Some of the 2nd grade kids playing with my bike
The bike is a mountain bike which is great because there are a lot of off-roading/potholing/dirt roads I will be going on. I have seen exactly one girl on a bike; part of this may be that pants are still uncommon on women here. So being a yevu, white girl, on a bike is odder than me just walking around. But just like in the US it sure is convenient. I do not have to wait for the taxis or try to squeeze into one that is already full. Side note, the current record for taxi capacity was 4 adults and one child in the back, driver, plus one adult and two kids in the passenger seat. Nine people in a Toyota hatchback.  It is also nice being able to bike past instead of having people stopping me on the street. Like in Chicago I feel safer on my bike in sketchier neighborhoods than I do walking. It is more anonymous but not always in a good way. I do not say hi to as many people because I am avoiding cars, potholes, people and goats. I do not observe the world around in as much detail. I am glad I started on foot but I am also glad I can now pop down the road or to campus in a few minutes rather than 10-15 minutes. When I went to campus to check in quickly some of the smaller boys ran up when they saw the bike. A few were able to straddle the top tube and reach the peddles, the others I put on the bike and just ran around with them on it for a while. I am writing this as I am about to set off with Tracy and Josh, the other volunteers, to go to Tafi Atome which is a village that has a monkey sanctuary so I am sure I will have more to write in a few hours.

And I am back! What a spectacular day. After a rough start of the first hostile situation I encountered. I biked to the trotro station, which entering is not allowed. I did not see the tiny sign. And I guy came up, grabbed my bike and said I could not go until I gave him 5 cedis. Which is not a lot of money but I was not going to be blackmailed when I made an honest mistake. This then escalated into my holding the bike, him holding my bike, and about 20 people yelling at each other some on my side and some on his. I was getting upset but also pissed and stubborn. But anyways, on to the good parts. 

Please sir, can I have some more?
Finally I got one to jump on me
I met Tracy and Josh and we headed out to Luc's place to borrow bikes for them and set off for Tofi Atome. With a hand-sketched map and slightly conflicting directions to the place we were not totally sure but luckily asking for directions is easy. It was a bright but overcast morning and on a quiet but newly paved road which was great. The last bit was dirt but very newly manicured. It was a little over an hour bike away and it was really nice to get into the more rural areas where there are long stretches of wilderness, no traffic and noise and just beautiful. If you took out the plantain trees, it really reminds me of home in the Blue Ridge Mountains. We arrived to the Monkey sanctuary and as I was locking up the bikes a nut fell out of a tree and wacked my hat. Then we look up and it was the monkey throwing them at us! After checking in and paying for the tour we and a bunch of Germans were given bananas to feed to one of the seven families that live here. Only a few of the families are people friendly. Tracy was like a monkey whisperer and had tons leap on her. It took me a while for a monkey to stay on my arm and not just grab a piece of the banana and run. Either way it was amazing to get so close to them and not be afraid of them biting like in other parts of the world. They were small Mona monkeys, and many were just little babies. The alpha male was much bigger but he was fed first and then kept back from the bananas. So that was just a super fun experience being surrounded and inches away from these adorable little guys, who made this little cooing/squeaking sound.









On the way back out we stopped in Kudzra, the town where my roommate and about 8 other students come from, to visit the bamboo beach. It is just the place where there is a river crossing and a peaceful open area along the shore with large bamboo stands. It would be a great place for a picnic of almost looks like a natural ballroom like you could have a wedding there.
The bamboo beach
Back to town, stopping for Fan-ice, a tasty frozen treat sold from bicycle carts, and went to a new bar and had the best restaurant food I have had here, fried rice, chicken and salad. We were all a bit wary of the greens but it was so good we all ate them and hoped for the best. So it was a great day with friends and on bikes with good food, conversation and monkeys. And it ended with a rainbow as I biked home.


P.S. Milk was a bad idea

Happy but HOT on my bike
So this is obvious, but it hit me today that it is HOT in equatorial Africa. It was the first day I felt like I just could not cool off. It is the kind of heat I cannot escape either with no AC, no refrigerator for cold drinks and only one fan in the house (which I plan on rectifying soon) After my first bike trip to Kpandu I just could not get cooled down even after sitting an hour in the internet cafe. So hopefully I will be slowly acclimating more but I am just a sweaty mess when I bike.

The Fish Fry Fiasco


So it was not really a fiasco but I could not think of a better word that started with F. Torkor is a fishing village and in the market there are tons of people selling dried and smoked fish and at school 4 of 5 days are some sort of starch with a tomato sauce with whole little smoked minnow-type fish. I am not a huge fan of the little minnows. I was talking to an intern last week about different foods and what we did and did not have in the US and what I have tried here along with a lot of other small talk. I also mentioned maybe I would call him and we could go to the market together and he could point out some of the things he was talking about. He then knocks on my door at 8:30am yesterday with a whole fish of unidentified species.
The before picture
It was a lake fish. I got dressed and he proceeded to take a piece of scrap roofing on the side of my house and clean the fish on it, very sanitary I am sure. First he cuts if open and takes out the egg sack, about the size of my palm and cuts the head off and put in the bowl. These are the best parts, or as they say here “very sweet” to anything that is tasty, not actually sweet like candy. So the fish is cut into chucks with skin, bones fins all left on and we priced to go get other supplies. I had already eaten breakfast and was not sure how this morning would play out and how fast I needed to cook this fish. So we wandered to town although it was too early for the market to be fully set up. Then walk back to my house picking up a bag of drinking water on the way, which I carried back to the house on my head. I am trying to build up some neck muscles to carry things like everyone else does here.

So back to my house, still not sure what we are going to do with this fish, and I say I would rather fry than boil it but we need flour. Boiled fish skin was one of the grosser things I have eaten here. Since the market was not set up we wander back towards where he lives to ask a neighbor. We ask a woman making balls of dough to fry and sell and she sends us to another. We stop by his place, a room maybe 10x10 feet separated by a sheet into a space for a bed and a space for a small couch. It is a room in a compound where I run into Millicent, one of my English students helping her family smoke fish.

Smoking fish
After some introductions, and buying a bag of flour for 50 peswas, back to my house to cook. We fried up the chunks of fish although I passed on him boiling the head for me. Instead he took it to campus where I am sure the kids would enjoy it more than me. Then he cooked the egg sack. He told me it tasted like chicken eggs but basically it was deep fried fish eggs with onion so it mostly just tasted like fry oil, onion, and had the texture of tiny little pellets. Right out of the oil it was ok but not my favorite. The fish was fine but not a tone of flavor, more of an oily fish than a clean flavor like trout. He took the head to the school, I went to town, and when I came back had the fish for lunch but with tons of bones it was a bit hard to eat in the pieces he had cut so I did my best. I also was warned the night before about eating undercooked or spoiled meat here and it giving me a long term parasite so that also made it a bit less appetizing. In the end I probably only ate about a fifth of the fish and felt totally wasteful about it and bad because this guy spent a lot of time and bought me the fish. Oh well, lesson learned, be careful what you ask for when it comes to meat. I think I will stick to a mostly vegetarian diet for now and find some other places to get meat that I can cook myself, but maybe not fish.
After