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| View from the hotel |
This week was midterm break, so I took a couple of days to
visit Biakpa, part of the Avatime region, recommended by a friend. It is a loop
of 8 villages in the mountains where they speak their own language and are
known for being at least 10 degrees cooler than the surrounding area. After
taking two taxis, a tro tro and a yam tuck up to the village I was ready to
relax and try to have that quiet, peaceful time in nature that I was not able
to last weekend. I got to the eco-lodge, and immediately encountered a common
social conundrum. There were three staff but not the owner, Tony, who I had
been emailing. So first they did not know where to put me even though in the
10+ room there was only one other guest. Then, I wanted to start with some type
of activity. I know they rented bikes and there were a bunch of hikes. So when
I asked for their help, they basically kept saying “Whatever you want” and I
kept saying, “Yes, but I do not know anything about the area, what do you
recommend for this afternoon?” Then they gave a confusing list of a few
activities and again, whatever I want. So hoping that there was enough time
left in the afternoon, I said I wanted to go on the closer-by nature trail hike
and if they could please direct me. After another confusing conversation about
if I needed a guide or not, I just took the best directions I could and get out
the door. I was being way pissier than I normally would be, but all I wanted to
do was to have someone tell me what to do, which is impossible. It is like
going to market with students, they are like, “whatever you want” and I am
trying to tell them that I want there recommendations, what is good, what can I
cook, what is that weird vat of liquid with a funnel?
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| Happy, wet, camper |
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| Two days, many rope climbs, no twisted ankles |
So on the road to try to find the trailhead there is thunder
in the distance and about 20 minutes into the hike it starts to rain. I was
thinking I should turn around but knew I would regret it since the storms
usually blow over quickly. So I went on, slowly relaxing and getting into a
hiking rhythm so going up the hills pretty fast and down very, very slowly
since it was slick, I was alone, and I have the coordination of a newborn giraffe.
It was overall, a great 3 hour or so hike that was a big loop back tot he
hotel. There were smaller falls, but cool ropes set up to help climb/repel down
to them. There are also rocks you can jump off to swim and ropes to swing but
given the rain already I did not partake in the swimming, next time. I was a
bit nervous the whole time about my safety, just if I slipped and twisted something
how long it would take someone from the hotel to come find me.
Maybe it is the area; maybe because I was just focused on my
surroundings, the amazing amount of beautiful/creepy/fascinating bugs took up
about half of mu pictures. Swarms of large ants all carrying dried dead ants
though the open roofed tunnels, butterflies, huge and colorful caterpillars,
tons of centipedes about the length of my hand. I had to be more careful than
in other places about just reaching and grabbing trees.
Back to the hotel, wet, dirty and feeling 100% better. I had
a nice dinner and a storm came in that made it almost too cold to be outside.
Of course the one time I go to an altitude where it is cold I forget the one long
sleeve shirt I brought and have never used.
I slept great, up at 6 for another day after watching
adorable kittens at breakfast, drinking my first real coffee, and talking with
the owner and getting very clear instructions how to hike across the valley,
the bush, to get to the biggest town of the area which has a community tourism
project for their mountain and waterfall. It was an even more awesome or as
good hike up to Amedgofe. Again, totally alone after I left the village area
but hiking down then up the side of a mountain so great views looking back on
my village and the whole valley. It was 1.5 hours there and to the visitor
center where I pay my money to hike up Mt. Gemi and see their falls (waterfall
number 4 for me in Ghana)
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| Graffiti succulent |
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| Lunch table |
Mount Gemi was not that great but mostly because it was starting
to cloud over and the appeal of a 30 foot cross on top is totally lost on me.
But it was neat to see a 360 view of the area. Back to the village market for
early lunch of my new favorite street food, waaktye (rice and bean mix) with
pasta, spicy (shito) and savory sauces and a hard boiled egg. I also got some
crunchy, sweet coconut balls. Nice easy hike most of the way to the Ole falls,
again, totally alone that whole time.
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| Ole Falls |
Steep down at the end with rope but still
easier than the day before. Relaxed there for a bit and back to the village
where after maybe 5 hours on feet at that time, I found a bar and watermelon to
relax and rehydrate for the hike home. Watched about 20 minutes of soap opera.
A man is dating a woman that looks just like his ex, who was a masochist, whose
ghost is haunting the new girlfriend to tell her that the man's brother and mother
where the ones that actually killed her. A lot happened in those 20 minutes.
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| Marching ants but it was one group. I saw the beginning and end of their team |
The way back is mostly downhill so easier but no faster. It
made me realize why I hate and suck as snowboarding, I am just terrible going
downhill with anything. I tried to practice putting my weight back but I am
just really bad following gravity. One bad run in with the biting ants, whose
pinchers just do not let go even after separated from the body. So a pants,
socks and shoes strip down in the path but that is ok since there is absolutely
no one there. I want to get a book on ants, they are my worst enemy here but
totally fascinating and I have heard two podcasts about them recently that I
want to follow up.
Back to Biakpa where I did find the one bar for a last beer
and talked politics and NGOs with Hope, Billy (not William) and Jones. They
wanted me to come visit their school, which could be fun. I can totally see the
appeal of the Avetime area, they have the mountain loop of villages, and they
have their own language. I want to come back for the rice festival where the
Ghanaian president will be coming to speak in another two weeks.
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| View from Mt Gemi |
Overall it was almost exactly what I was looking for, minus
the biking which I decided against since it was really just to the different villages,
not on trails like I thought. Tons of time alone in nature but surrounded by so
much interesting stuff to see and watch that 6 hours of walking/hiking just
flew past. If definitely completely confirmed the type of tourist I am.
Sometimes I feel like I should do things more cultural, like learn how cloth is
woven or visit museums. I have lived in Chicago for over 5 years and still have
not been to the Art Institute. But walking along, studying the complex routes
and swarms of ants, the hollow trees, the butterflies, cocoa tress, springs and
waterfalls etc. I am just so much more interested and fascinated but what is
already on the planet than what people create.
Saturday morning walked the hour down to the base of the
mountain to catch another series of vehicles back home. Living and working in
another culture is definitely draining, and I think I would have to pace myself
much more if I was living in a place for a year or more. But hopefully taking
little breaks like this can help recharge my batteries to go back to school and
back to the life trying to teach kids to read, work with carpenters, and a
variety of other school/life tasks that always make a long to do list.
